My Tusken Raider with the Godzilla Mask.
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Fearsome desert savages inhabiting the rocky Jundland Wastes, Tusken Raiders are the foremost reason Tatooine colonists do not wander far from their isolated communities. Extremely territorial and xenophobic, Tusken Raiders will attack with very little provocation. They show no allegiance to even their native world-mates, as these nomads have attacked Jawa scouting parties on occasion. They have even gathered numbers large enough to attack the outskirts of smaller towns like Anchorhead.
Covered from head-to-foot in tattered rags and robes, Tusken Raiders -- or Sand People as they are also known -- brandish a deadly bladed club known as a gaderffii. They also carry projectile rifles with which to shoot at passing vehicles. The male of the species tend to be the aggressors. Females can be distinguished by their elaborate jeweled masks with eyeslits and torso-covering sand-shrouds. Tusken children wear unisex cowls and simple cloaks.
For transportation, Sand People have domesticated the hardy bantha -- a longhaired spiral-horned quadruped also found on Tatooine. These nomads purposely travel in single file, to conceal their numbers.
Note: The color for the 1977/ANH head wraps is a yellowish Green, or pale olive color, not Tan like one would think. The darker green tint to the wraps helps distinguish the head from the body .
If you ever wanted to be a Tusken Raider and just didn't know where to start.
Well here on this page you will find stuff to build your own Tusken Raider from scrath or from a kit, and how to do it.
Other Materials Needed to Do the Godzilla Or SC Tusken Mask
2 Each Tubes of Amazing Goop (Plumbers)
2 Each 2 oz.Tubes Of Barge Cement
2 Each Tubes of 5-Min. Epoxy
Exacto/hobby knife with sharp blades
Below You will find Different Tusken Raider Mask kits.
The Godzilla Mask Kit
The Godzilla mask is specifically modeled as the original screen-used "A New Hope" mask appears in the Star Wars Chronicles. It's fairly large (as it's mathematically scaled for accuracy) and will fit anyone. The materials are excellent quality and the completed mask actually weighs several pounds. This is exactly what the kit contains:
1. One latex mask: The mask is custom sculpted and cast to fit all of the hardware and components. It is probably the most vital part of the kit, as it is both accurate in form and size. The latex is poured thick and is formulated to be rigid once it sets in order to support the assembly of the mask.
2. Eight machined parts: Every dimension of these parts is precisely scaled to the mask pictured in the Star Wars Chronicles. The horn pieces are drilled and tapped and include machine screws and washers for fastening to the mask.
3. Tooth/Nose piece: The standard piece for the kit is resin and I include adhesive modeling foil for finishing it. I have found that this gives the most accurate look as opposed to painting or plating the piece.
4. One quarter of a lambskin: This is for the inner mouth leather.
5. Pre-cut cowhide: These six pieces of cowhide are for the outer mouth leather. They are custom dyed, glazed, and template-cut to fit the mask.
6. Fabric: This sheet of fabric is custom dyed and is twelve square feet in size. This is enough material for the mask plus some extra for the neck and wrists of a costume if you need it. The fabric is accurate in color, weave, fiber, and weight to the original masks.
7. Instructions/Photo guide: This guide covers what you need to do to build your mask step-by-step. It covers adhesives, trimming, and assembly. Also included is a high-resolution visual guide of the assembly process as seen below.
The Godzilla Kit at certain stages of Completion "Cool" !
As you can see at the Very Bottom one is Finished.
That's what I call Very Movie Accurate.
If you are looking for the Godzilla kit contact Adam at : Godzilla@ix.netcom.com
"Thanks Go out to Adam for providing the Gozilla kit Pictures"
You can Buy a Tusken Raider Mask kit or You Can get these parts together or separately.
Just contact Adam at : Godzilla@ix.netcom.com
1) Fully built mask - ( eyes,tusks,horns are all machined aluminum parts )
2) Un built mask or kit - ( has all parts needed for assembly )
3) Latex head Only
4) All Metal parts Only ( eyes, horns, nose, tusks with mounting hardware)
5) Aluminum nose Only
6) Resin cast nose Only
7) Leather trim kit Only
8) All Resin parts Only (eyes, horns, nose, tusks with mounting hardware)
How To Build The Godzilla Tusken Raider Mask
My Godzilla kit at the Start.
Trim the mask cut out the mouth, eyes, tusks I used a drill to drill holes out for the horns on the top of the head. Follow the markings made on the mask for the proper cuts. Also cut a triangular hole to provide a bit more nasal space inside when wearing.
You will want to use a exacto knife with a new blade, I also used a dremel with a grinding bit.
The Eyes and cheek tusks must be glued in place with Amazing Goop to position the eyes use the leather nose bridge (#4) it will help to postion them properly and also when gluing them inplace I add more glue to the outer portion of the eyes to help keep the forward not looking to the left or right.
The top horns /tusks are screwed from the inside (using the pre-tapped screws provided) and Carefully cut the holes out first the cheek tusks holes should be slightly smaller then the base of the cheek tusks and push them from insde of the mask to the outside allowing 1/4" inside and they should angle slightly downward and then Glue them into place, use Goop a generous amount.
The Leather of the mouth should be 5" x 14" to glue in place use Barge cement, Start from the top and work your way around the mouth pushing the excess inside giving that creased look.
See Picture below.
Also install the leather around both tusks/ blood spitters.
You may want to gut a set out of paper 1st and get it right then use that as a template.
Remember to sand and prime and paint the "nose tooth" piece if you got a resin casted one if you have a Aluminum one now you can glue it to the latex with Goop.
This kit also comes with foil to you will need to apply that before you glue it into place.
The postion should be centered and the base of the 2 vertical cuts should be 1/8" forward of the lambskin leather underneath them (Overhang)
Nose Tooth glued on.
Leather Cowhide #1 Glued in place
Applying the layered Cowhide strips requires much trial and error. You have to use fairly quick drying 2 part epoxy (Devcon 5-Min) In th Godzilla kit it is labled each strip ( 1, 2, 3, 4 and so on) Apply the epoxy a little at a time not too much so it will not run all over the leather.
Leather Cowhide #2 Glued in place.
Leather Cowhide #3 glued and trimmed under the chin so both ends connect together, And Cowhide #4 Glued on top between the eyes.
Leather Cowhide #5 Glued on.
Now the last section of Cowhide is #6 it is glued on and again cut under the chin and both ends are glued together.
The Head Bandages.
This is the Finshed Godzilla Mask
But still need to weather it the loose outer head bandages, I did weather some under the loose ones on top .
Now it is weathered and allmost finished.
I still need to install screen inside to cover the mouth and also install some coolong fans with battery packs
If you are looking for the Godzilla kit contact Adam at : Godzilla@ix.netcom.com
This A Top Of The Line, One Of A Kind Tusken Raider Mask The "Godzillia Kit"
Adam has been making these for several years and is the "Best Of The Best".
This is My Tusken Raider Mannequin with the Godzilla Mask .
Yep! Really Freeks My Wife Out (LOL)
Just need to make a Bantha next to it if I had the room.
The King Jawa ( JP ) Tusken Raider Mask Kit
The Full King Jawa (JP) Tusken Raider Mask Kit
See The How To on this mask Below.
How to Build the King Jawa (JP) Tusken Raider Mask.
Following the markings on the mask, I've cut out the eyes, mouth and a triangular hole to provide a bit more nasal space inside when wearing.
The top horns /tusks are screwed from the inside (using the pre-tapped screws provided) and Carefully drill the holes out first the jaw tusks and Use Goop and the screws to secure them.
The heavy Aluminum "eyes" have been stuck to the Latex mask using Amazing Goop (Plumbers)
"Goop", a glue which sets like rubber, Find at ACE Hardware, HD, Lowes or http://www.plumbingstore.com/compound.html, The jaw tusks have been glued with the Goop too.
Use the Nose Bridge Leather to get the proper position of the eyes, it helps.
Apply the Lambs Leather around the mouth - a single strip applied lengthways to the bottom and then worked around the mouth piece, pushing the excess inside giving that creased look.
Note: Best to start from the Top of the mouth use Barge Cement
Also install the leather around both tusks/ blood spitters
Remember to sand and prime and paint the "nose tooth" piece if you got a resin casted one if you have a Aluminum one now you can glue it to the latex with Goop.
Applying the layered Cowhide strips requires much trial and error. You have to use fairly quick drying 2 part epoxy (Devcon 5-Min) JP lables each strip ( A, B, C and so on) Apply the epoxy a little at a time not too much so it will not run all over the leather. In the pictures below you can see how the strip of leather goes oner the tooth alow 1/4" (see the Picture on the Left)
Now the next strip apply it 1/4 inch or so back fron the other (See picture on Right)under the chen you will mark a center line and cut both side to fit so they meet together, you will do this on the next parts too.
The Next one back further, and so on do the same under the chin.
Then put the leather nose bridge.
The next to the last part is a thin strip of leather it goes over the leather nose bridge.
The last part is a oblong part the comes to a point on both ends now it is glued forward and up against the other parts under the chin.
Head Bandages Next
Now tear the cloth that is usded for the bandages into 1.5 " & 2" strips and then wash then and dry good you may have to untangle them. The first piece of bandage encircles the face. I use Goop for this and glue it down not too much glue but don't worry the rest of the bandages will cover it. Tthe early pieces are all glued down quite flat where as the later strips are attached more loosely and crisscross each other in a more random fashion. Some guys use High Temp Hot glue to install the bandages but Goop works just as good.
Now what I do is also glue neck bandages to the lower part if the mask, just like I did for the SC Mask, then it is ready for weathering.
To weather it use Dark Brown, Rust Colored and Flat Black a Dusting effect.
I put screen inside the mouth and eyes.
This is the Finished King Jawa (JP) Tusken Raider Mask Kit.
The Left & Right side View of the King Jawa (JP) Tusken Raider Mask Kit.
The SC Tusken Raider Mask's
Two Versions of Tusken Raider Maskes One from 1977 (A New Hope) and One From 1999 (Episode 1 & 2)
The 1977 (A New Hope) Version
Another Picture of the 1977 (A New Hope ) Version
The 1999 (Episode 1 & 2) Version
Note: It is Smaller than the 1977 version
Another Picture Of The 1999 (Episode1 & 2) Version
Jerff tryed to make it as close to movie accurate as he could.
Both Made By Jeff, if you want one you can contact him at : firstname.lastname@example.org
And His How To Build A Tusken Raider Head Go To:
This is My Finished SC Tusken Raider Mask The 1977 Version
I still have to weather it and tuck the bandages around the neck area but it is almost Finished
I Finished the weathering and gave it a little worn look.
Finished weathering it and put screen inside to cover the eyes, I also put screen to cover the mouth.
Yes the mask fits Me Perfect !
Thanks Jeff !!!
This is My SC Tusken Raider Mask The 1999 Version
I still need to weather it.
But one thing I made for a kids head about a 8 to 12 year old or a hat size smaller than 6-7/8, it does not fit me.
Both masks made By Jeff, if you want one you can contact him at : email@example.com
Thanks Jeff, I love the Build !
Another Tusken Rader kit.
This is a Basic DIY you will have to find all the rest to Build this one.
The Mask is made of Plastic and the rest is resin casted parts, a less expensive kit found on the net.
These Tusken Parts are what I used on build the SC Mask they are the right size, I did cut the nose tooth, cheek Tusks and eyes off a little but not much.
If you are looking for this set Contact Jeff at : firstname.lastname@example.org
Let him Know I sent you.
If you are Looking for the material use for the Head Bandages well here it is go to Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Center if you have a local one if not on line Look For ( Natural Bull Denim) get at least 2 to 3 yards I picked up 4 yards.
Now dye it Two Formula Colors to make the bandages
2 to 3 yards of Natural Bull Denim
( This I did )
2 each Box Rit Dye Taupe ( powder )
1 each Box Peral Grey ( powder )
1/4 teaspoon of Rite Dye Sunshine Orange ( powder )
2 to 3 Yards of Natural Bull Denim
2 Boxes RIT Golden Yellow (Powder )
2 Boxes RIT Dye Tan ( Powder )
1 Table Spoon Rite Dye Light Green ( Powder )
Please go by the instructions.
It should look like this or real close to it.
But you can make it the color you want it from a Olive color to a Dark Mustard color.
Tusken Neck Seals
I took a StormTrooper Neck seal I wear a size 17" but get 2 sizes bigger than what you wear The one I used was an 18" I need a 19" because of the wraping the bandages.
I removed all the tubing out of it and did it like this worked my way up the neck seal overlapping each other.
Once you have the helmet / Mask on it looks like this...
Now I will dirty up the mask a bit more.
Now it is dirty for this Tusken Raider
Looking For the Tusken Raider Inner and outer Robes Contact Dianna at : email@example.com
She Does a Fantastic Job on These.
The clost to Movie Accurate as you can get.
Both are made of a thick 100% preshrunk chunky cotton weave.
The robe in the photos being offered is the full 60" long (floor length). Because it's the inner robe, the sleeves are shorter for comfort when wearing both the inner and outer robes.
The Inner Robe measures 60" tall x 50" wide.
Just like the inner robe only wider for long sleeves. It can be worn alone, or layered. Robe measures 70" wide x 60" tall.
It's hard to tell but the robe is bigger than the picture.
The Outer Robe.
Note: Due to my size I will have to trim it to fit me and have it resewn
There are a few different colors for Tusken robes. Pick your favorite and do your own color weathering using either a mist of brown and black spray paint or RIT liquid dye. I recommend liquid dye mixing tan and gray.
A close-up after it is dyed with tan and gray now just weather / dirty it up a little.
Looking For the Tusken Raider Inner and outer Robes Contact Dianna at : firstname.lastname@example.org
White Canvas Work Gloves
For Sale $4.00 a pair plus shipping.
I dyed mine with my robe a tea color, just use 3/4th a bottle of Rit Tan Liquid Dye
Weather with misting of gray and brown or khaki spray paint.
Swedish Mauser Ammo Belt
Brown leather. Adjusts to 44". Includes five pockets measuring 3" x 4" x 2" and two shoulder strap rings. Originally used to carry Swedish Mauser stripper clips.
Item No. 1152620 , 1152630 & 1152610
You can find them here : www.e-gunparts.com
British P-1903 Leather Five Pocket Bandolier
British Victorian Cavalry .303cal Bandolier
Found Here at: http://www.ima-usa.com
Model - BL1002
"How To Make Your Own"
This is how I made My Respirator,
1) 2 each Spray Paint Cans / WD-40 cans
2) 2 each Soda Bottle Caps / WD-40 caps
3) 1 each 1/4 inch solid aluminum rod 3ft long
4) 2 each brass water pipe 1/4"Flare fittings # A-60 at HD's Or Large Ca Rivets
5) 2 Packages of 5 min. Epoxy (Devcon)
6) Sandpaper 320grt
7) Cow leather or Lambskin Dark Brown
8) 1 Can Silver spray paint or what ever you prefer it to look like, Black & dark Brown to dirty it up a little.
9) Dremel and a Cutting Disc and Grinding stone
Note: I am making another Resirator with 2 WD-40 Cans and caps with Car Rivets instaed of the water pipe fittings I will post a finished pictures of both.
I used 2 of these spray cans Please Empty Them 1st before you cut into them !
Then Cut the Top off both cans it has a lip so it will be easy use a Dremel with Cutting disc. Clean up all sharp edges
Should look like this (Above)
Now measure 3" from the Top edge of can to the bottom and cut off the excess.
Now on the other can measure from the top lip down 1/4" and cut the top off.
Clean up all sharp edges with Dremel grinding stone if you have one. Or good sandpaper.
Now insert the Top into the Other use a long screw driver to push it into place it should look like this only the right size (Smaller)
Once it is 3" you are ready to Glue.
You can see the 1/4 inch solid aluminum rod will be going through the cans.
2 Each Soda Caps
The Brass 1/4" Flare Fittings 2 of them.
This is what I used to Glue the Can to each other once you cut it to the right size.
Once you cut the Can the right size then Epoxy it together
Glue Cap to top of can with Epoxy you can cut hole before or after for the brass pipe fitting.
Still have not cut it to the right size but this is how it will be glued together.
Now it is Cut to the right 3"size from edge of can to the other edge of the can and ends are glued with epoxy.
Now Do the other End the same way, I may use expanding Foam inside too.
Now install the 1/4 inch solid aluminum rod make sure the rod is of equal length coming out both ends.
I Epoxyed It Inside I drilled 2 holes and poured the epoxy inside and let dry then did the other end making sure the rod had equal amounts on either side.
Now it is time to bend the rods, bend one end of the rod to a 90 degree angle next to the fitting.Then the other end it should look like this.
You can see the 2 hole I use to put the epoxy in the can.
Now bend the rod just slightly going away from the 90 degree bends on both rod ends that you just did.
Now bend the rods so that it wraps around your neck. A smooth curve is desired over this crimped look.
The Finished rods.
Now it's time to sanding then prime it.
Now Sanding done, Primer done too. I will let it Dry for a 3 days to week and wet sand it before I paint it.
I use Dupli-Color Filler Primer (High Build Formula) #FP101 Grey Filler and 2 to 3 coats that's why I will wait a week.
"Now it's time for the Silver Paint."
I finished painting it !
Now all that is needed is to wrap a strip of leather around and Glue it down .
Now that Installed the leather wrap next I can stain it and make it look dirty. Use a 4-5oz section of leather this is thin and bend around the can.
The Completed Tusken Raider Respirator !
As you can see I made it look a little dirty.
Now this is a small version of the Respirator the correct size I am told is the size of a WD40 Can.
The One I am going to make and Use will be the same size as a WD40 Can.
Legs & Arms
The shoes are just old sneakers wrapped with the same strips of dark khaki duck cloth as the head using hot glue. The trick is to make legs from a square material and glue diagonal strips to it. Then hot glue or sew velcro and wrap around leg. Then when you put the shoes on separately, have a couple long strips attached to the shoe and wrap those up your leg to give it a continuous wrapped look. Repeat for the arms.
This Info from Tk409
Thanks go out to him for that Good Information
The Tusken Rifle
There are several variations used in different movies shown below.
This one was used in Episode 1
If you want to make this one, You can go to :
You can print on out Just click the link Below
Jeff did a Very Good Job to make a Blue Print for everyone to build thier own Tusken Rifle.
My Thanks! Go Out to Him for letting me use this Picture and the links.
I can't wait to Build this one!!!!!!!
This is 2 Tuskens in Episode 2 with 2 types of guns
A Picture of a Tusken Rifle In the Starwars Movie (A New Hope ?)
Two Tuskens Unmasked look close at the guns (A New Hope).
In A New Hope Look at Luke's Rifle strange looking ????
Tusken Raider Gaffi Stick.
There was several types used in the Movie.
Look at this Picture from A New Hope.
See the one on the right side.
These were uses in Episode 4 (A New Hope)
The Most common Gaffi stick every one identifies with the Tusken Raider is this one.
The One that was used to attacking Luke.
** Gaffi Stick **
To make a Gaffi stick like the one used in Episode 4 it was made from a Totokia War Club
This is considered to be the most Fijian of all war clubs. It is also referred to as
the “beaked battle hammer” or the “pineapple club” and is a collectible item
amongst “Star Wars” fans.
The Totokia was mainly used by chiefs in warfare 100 years ago, designed to drive
or peck a neat hole through the enemy’s skull, the weight of the bulky head being
concentrated in the point of the beak. It was particularly favored for murder and
skirmish warfare in thick brush, the heavy head driving the beak through the skull
without a long warning swing which was likely to alert the target, or catch on
Scary Info "WOW" !!!
Totokia War Club
item no. 08200
Size: 19” long (Small)
4” along beak formation with a 2” beak
3” diameter at head of weapon
This one can not be used to make your Gaffi stick But a Very Nice Collectors Item.
Now Talking to Mike at fijivillageimports.com he may start selling the Large one, so if you want a large one at a Good Price Contact him to get on the list.
Tell him you got the info from my website.
You can find it here:
Contact Mike at: email@example.com
You Can Also purchase this one which is a two-piece solid resin KIT cast from a real Fijian warclub
Clean up and assembly is relatively easy on this kit. There is one seam along the inside of the shaft that needs sanding (along with two small sprues at the elbow) and the bottom of the "pineapple" end will need clean up. The pineapple end is pressure cast so the details are nearly bubble free. After that you can glue the pineapple end to the shaft, or if you'd like to drill the bottom of the pineapple and add a dowel for a stronger connection, you can do that as well (the shaft already has a hole for one). Once assembled, the totokia measures 34” long (not including the dowel).
You Can Contact Tom Here :
How To Make Your Own Gaffi Stick
To start with you will need these supplies:
Several Dowel Rods:
1 each - 1-1/4" 4 ft long
1 each - 7/8" 4 ft long
1 each - 3/4" 2 ft long
1 each - 3/8" 2 ft long
1 each - 1/4" 2 ft long
Get at (Wal-Mart, HD or Lowes)
1 Each of 5"x 2-1/4" Bun Foot
HD- # 2731
Lowe's - # 2731
Round Taper Bun Foot
HD # 2748
Also Need 5 Min Epoxy (Lg 2 Pack) (HD or Lowe's)
And Epoxy Putty (Wal-Mart)
Also need to get a roll of Fashion Cord at Wal-Mart Item #61251
Some Dark Brown Leather Dye
The Dark Brown Leather Dye You can also get it from Nina & David Walker at: RowensBones@aim.com
1 Each PVC slip fitting 1-1/4
Some ABS Plastic 0.80 or 0.90 gauge for the fins.
You will also need sandpaper a Med grit and a Fine grit, a dremel with cutting wheel, a triangle file, Drill with bits.
What the Club end will look like when and how you make it, this is how I did mine.
First we start with this marking about 1/4" circle inside and outside of the Bun foot do this on both sides.
(See Pictures below )
Now file or cut / trim the excess between the lines to make the Bun more round, if you go a little past your makes that's ok.
( See Picture Below )
Next mark section that need cut off to form a point make a curve to it see drawing above. I only cut 3 sides to do this then filed the it down to make a point.
( Before )
( After )
Now we remove the screw that it comes with and drill a 1 to 1-1/2" hole for the 3/8" dowel rod
Also file off a little more so you get this:
You will file even more off once you glue it and the round bun together with the dowel rod in place.
Now mark the lines where you will need to cut into the round bun, mark the center line first like in pictures total lines are 5 each.
Now mark lines across the bun a total of 32 lines is what I did .
Next we cut the Lines and drill the hole through the whole bun for the 3/8" dowel rod.
Now Lets Cut the 1-1/4" Dowel rod, measure down from the top 5" and cut at a 45 degree angle.
Now take the short 5" part mark and drill a 3/8" hole in the center as far as you can.
Then measure from the 45 degree angle to the end 2" and cut off the excess
Now Finish drilling the hole through it.
Now Glue ( Epoxy ) it to the Large Part like so.....
Then Drill a hole through it too. Now it should look like this (below).
(Do Not Glue the rod in yet)
Now Cut all lines that you marked on the round bun like this.
Now Cut the dowel rod 8" long
Now Epoxy the dowel rod into both the bun and tapered bun and put the glue in between the round bun and the tapered bun like this and let it set for 24 to 48 hours before you start filing down and shaping the tapered bun.
These are a Before and After
Next we use the Epoxy Putty around the base of the cone to fill in the gap and let dry.
Now after dry's about 1 hour we sand it down, smooth out all edges around the cone.
Now dry go and sand it down like this one.
Now Lets go to the shaft while that dry's and cut the shaft to the right length.
Measure from the top of the shaft down 36" and cut the excess off.
Now mark the center of the end of the shaft and drill a hole 3" deep for the 3/8 " dowel rod
Now take the PVC slip fitting measure 1/2" and cut that off
Round off the one edge only that will be on the dowel rod and epoxy in place at the bottom like so.
Now go to the angled end file and round off the top like this
Next use epoxy putty the under the 45 degree angle like this after 1 hour sand that down.
About 1/4 Epoxy Putty from the tube.
Next we epoxy the shaft to the bun/cone so make sure you position it the right way
Once it is dry cut the excess dowel rod and file the area, it will be rounded off even more like so.
Now use the rest of the epoxy putty and fill in the underneath part and sides and more on the top like so.
This will have to dry about 1 hour again and then file it and sand it down all the high areas like so.
Now it should Look Like This
( Step A )
Now the shaft that holds the fins 7/8" Dowel rod.
I have seen it done two ways the length that is in one of my gaffi sticks I measured it and used a length of only 8-1/2"
This one I am making the shaft a little longer it will be 13-1/2" and then cut (7/8" Dowel Rod).
( Step B )
See Step B below
At one end mark the center and drill into it a 3" deep hole to put the 3/8" dowel rod, at the other end mark the center and drill a 1/4" hole 3" deep for a 1/4" Dowel Rod.
Only drill one 3" hole for the 3/8" Dowel rod in the 24" 7/8" dowel rod.
Now Measure the end you drilled the 1/4" hole in down 1" thus part you have to file square
This is what it will look like.
Now we measure the 3/8" dowel rod about 5" and cut it.
Next we drill a 2" hole in one of the ends in the center again cut a 1/4" dowel rod to connect both the 7/8" dowel rod to this dowel rod and Epoxy both together.
Now we have to measure 2-1/2" like in the diagram below to make the tip square and tapered
Now turn it on the edge and measure 1" this is where the fins will be positioned
Now mark the outline where the fins go .
Now use a Dremel and cutting blade and remove the wood and try the fins in each slot make sure they are all lined up with each other.
Next we will epoxy each fin in place one at a time.
I install one then do the opposite one and so on.
( Step B )
Cut the 7/8" dowel rod 24"
Only drill one 3" hole in the 24" 7/8" dowel rod.
Now on the oppisite fron the hole that you drilled measure and make a mark at 5" and ine at 2-1/2" this is your square tip will be, also measure 1" from the 5 " down ( 6" ) that will be the area your fins will be
Next you will file that area down like this.
Now Measure from the end about 5" to 8" make a mark of where you want the ring to go.
I picked 5" See the Pictures Below
You need to get a 1/2" PVC cap cut it 1/2" wide
Slip it on to the 5" to 8" mark you can put glue on it but just a little it is very tight without the glue.
Next Install all 4 fins like in Step A and Now it should look like this....
Next once all the fins are epoxyed in place now we can Epoxy the main shaft to the fin shaft we just finished.
Note the is made like Step A
Now check to see if there is any gaps where the epoxy did not fill in all the way so go and do it.
Look around the fins and the ring, I had to do this too. I found a few gaps.
Now we let set for several hours best wait at least 24 Hours and then we can sand it all down, then use the primer if you want and paint it. I use Krylon Wood Brown , Krylon Earth Tierra Brown and dust it with Rus-Oleum Rustic Umber and Krylon Flat black, you use what ever you want.
Tape off the lower half it is not wood but should be a silver / rusty metal look to it with a sandy look too.
This is Not finished yet I put several coats on it and let it set for 72 hours to 1 week before we do the lower part.
Tape off the lower part from the upper then I used a Rust-Oleum ( Sandable Primer #249321 ) let set for 2 hours then I sanded it with the fine sandpaper then painted it with Rust-Oleum ( Metalic Silver #7271 ) like I did I also used the same Flat Black & the same brown to weather it
NOTE: When using Sandable Primer if you put it on thick let it set for at least 1 to 2 Weeks then sand it down.
"This is Optional "
After it sets 72 Hours to 1 week use a real fine 800 grit sandpaper on this area to make it look worn it dulls this out and blends the color don't over due this or you will have to repaint it.
This is what it looks like....
Then we file out the design on the bun/ cone part like in the gaffi stick below.
I used a Half Round Metal file and a Triangle metal file.
It should look like this.
Now you can either leave the part you filed out like it is or use a light colored stain that is up to you.
Next we make the design we want on the shaft, again that is up to you but to cut the design I used a fine marker and the Dremel
From the fin end make a 6-1/2" mark, then from that 6-1/2" mark
make another 2" mark this 2 " wide is where your design will be so draw it and the cut this out lightly with a cutting whell or what ever you want
Frome the Bun edge make a mark the measure down 1-1/2" and make another mark.
Now from that 1-1/2" mark measure down 7" amd make another mark.
Now from that 7" make measure down 2" anain this is the design area again
It should look like this once you file out your design.
Next we use that Craft Goop and the Craft Fasion Cord. I start by putting some of the glue on the shaft and wrap the stir
around it, tuck the end under the area you need to wrap like so...
Work your way down adding a little glue at a time because it will dry fast.
I did this area between the 2 designs I made and it will be about 7" long also when you hold the Gaffi stick this is were your hands will be. Rub off any glue that comes out of the string area.
Now do the other end the same way. I did wrap only 6" you can make them both the same lenth.
Well next we stain the string or leave it like it is, I am staining this one. I used Dark Brown shoe dye now it has to dry several hours.
The Finished Gaffi Stick.
You can see all 3 at different stages, and what size you want.
The middle and top one I used to make this "How To".
Now to build the rest of the Club use this:
Thanks go out for the Picture to PROPRUNNER.
One Of My Gaffi Stick
I am building a better looking and a little more Movie accurate Gaffi Stick than the one I have now.
A work in progress I still have the other end to finish...
But here are 2 pictures of it so far.
Working on the other end now.
This is the Finished Tusken Raider Gaffi Stick.
I dyed the lighter parts to make it more accurate after I took pictures of the Gaffi Stick with the Tusken Raider
You can see The difference it looks better now.
Some Pictures of My Finished Tusken Raider
Without the Outter Robe on.
I took the cloth off that I wraped around the neck area and installed the Tusken Neck Seal.
See it in the pictures below these.
No This Is Not For Sale.......
I think this looks so Cool!!
Another Good side view Of My Raider.
Yes still need to build this display for the Tusken Raider, He does need a Gun.
These next 3 pictures have the Tusken Raider neck seal on and the Outter Robe on.
And two picture of me in My Tusken Raider Costume.
My Tusken Raider ANH (Male) DZ1336
501st Requirements to Join with this Costume
* Tusken Raider Male Standard *
ALL of the following costume elements are required in order to be eligible for 501st Legion membership for this costume.
•a fully wrapped head with the following features - sand-colored cloth head wrappings, leather or leather-like muzzle, silver/aluminum detail pieces to include four tapered head spikes, two cylindrical eye cones with 2 slots cut into the underside of each, two cheek tusks (blood spitters), and one nose piece with 2 vertical slots in it. screening or tinted lenses must be installed in the eye cones and muzzle so that eyes and mouth are not visible from the outside of mask.
•an object worn around the neck, consisting of a small 3" to 4. leather wrapped cylinder with tapered metal gaskets on either end connecting to a silver tube, which runs around the neck, securing the piece to the wearer. A prequel Tusken should have a sand-colored neck wrap made of fabric. It should hide the skin between the mask and the robe,
•an inner full-length robe made of a textured, sand-colored fabric reaching within 2-3 inches of the floor. .
Gloves and bindings
•sand-colored cloth or leather gloves with cloth wrappings. These start at the palm and continue up the arm until concealed within robe. The wrappings should conceal all skin between the gloves and the robe.
•boots or shoes, covered with cloth wrappings. These continue up the leg until concealed within the robe. The wrappings should cover the boot/shoes and conceal all skin or street clothes between the footwear and the robe.
•a Tusken must have at least one bandolier; preferably one of these (from ANH):
•leather Henry Martini British .303 bandolier pattern
•leather Lee Metford (Boer War era) British .303 bandolier pattern
•leather Lee Enfield British .303 bandolier 1903 pattern
A prequel Tusken may utilize the leather Swedish Mauser bandolier. Other leather WW2 era style bandoliers (or similar recreations) matching the styles in the movie may also be acceptable.
•a Gaderffii (gaffi stick) of similar design to the styles used in ANH or AOTC, or a sniper rifle of similar design to the styles used in ANH or TPM.
•a third leather bandolier may be worn around the waist.
These costume elements are in addition to the required list of costume parts and are optional. This list provides costuming options that increase the level of accuracy of the costume and give a costumer ideas to consider for improvement.
•a very loose fitting adn open outer robe made of a similar textured, sand-colored fabric. This is worn over the bandolier(s) and inner robe and reaches at least the bottom of the inner robe. Should extend along the arm to the wrist.
•a 6" to 7. wide .girth belt. that ties in the back, made of similar fabric to the robes. No excess should hang from the knotting or attachment. This would run under any waist bandolier.
•a second bandolier, as listed in the bandoliers section.
Elements listed as acceptable here may not be traditionally associated with a costume, but are not so unreasonable as to detract from it. Please keep in mind that the following items may not be allowed at certain canon/high profile appearances.
•a utility strap with an appropriate bag or pouches may substitue for the second bandolier..
* Tusken Raider Male Prequel Era *
This section of the Page is for Comments.
If anything on the page helped them in making their own Costume or Prop.
This comment is from Joseph the Tusken Raider Gaffi Stick and a Picture of his work.
First and foremost, I want to say thank you. Your website is a wealth of information on Star Wars costumes, and I am grateful for the effort you have put into it. I decided to build a Tusken Raider costume this year and while researching I came across your website. I just wanted to share a few photos of my nearly complete Gaffi Stick, which I used your guide to help create. I still plan on adding more detail, but I am pleased with the end product. At first my costume was simply going to be a Halloween outfit for this year, but with the effort I have put into it, and the level of authenticity I have been able to pull off, I am considering applying for the 501st.
Thanks again for everything!
Thanks For Your Comments Joseph.